When you stopped, or turn the engine, you need to turn off the box from the engine. In automatic gearboxes, a hydrotransformer is used to separate two components, in cars with a manual gearbox, clutch is used. The clutch kit consists of a driven clutch disc, a pressure disk (basket), clutch fork, squeezing bearing.
The clutch basket is attached to the flywheel bolts, and the clutch disc is placed between them. The squeezed bearing is located from the side of the gearbox, and the clutch fork presses on the squeezer bearing. Below there is a guide to help in diagnostics and repair for the most common clutch problems.
Problem number 1 – the transfer will be periodically with difficulty or will not turn on at all:
Check clutch cylinders – on some cars a hydraulic clutch system. As a hydraulic fluid, for working with the clutch system, brake fluid is used. Check the fluid level, if there is little fluid or it is not at all, you may have a leak or the system is ascended. Clutch drive system will not work without liquid. Check the main and working clutch cylinders for leaks.
Clutch refusal – clutch disk can be completely destroyed, not allowing the disk to move along the primary shaft of the box.
Internal damage to the box – in the gearbox, shafts with gears are used to transmit power from the engine to the wheels. If the gear of the shaft is worn out or broken, this can lead to the fact that the torque is transmitted to the box, but not displayed to the differential. Clutch, this case works fine.
Check the clutch cable – some cars are equipped with a clutch cable instead of the main and working cylinder. If the clutch cable breaks, the clutch will not work. When clicked on the clutch pedal, you will feel the unusual ease of squeezing. Pull the cable and, if it stretches easily, then you need to replace it.
Clutch fork – if the cylinders or clutch cable work normally, then the clutch fork is most likely to blame. The clutch fork is used to transfer the force from the clutch drive system to the squeezing bearing, which in turn presses on the basket, to release the clutch disc.
The problem number 2 – the transfer is turned on, but the car stands still or moves with difficulty, although the engine is “roaring”:
Check the clutch disk – the driven disk is made from the connection from asbestos in the same way as the brake pads, since this material wears out, it loses the clutch between the pressure disk and the flywheel. With the wear of the clutch disc, the driver creates a sensation of slippage (the clutch leads). This may mean that the clutch disk is worn and a replacement is required. (If the engine has a leakage of motor oil through the back cover, then the oil will let the disk slip).
Recommendation: When replacing the clutch disc, always check the clutch basket. Even if at first glance the basket is normal, conduct the last check. Attach an even line on the pressure plate, no less than the diameter of the plate, and look at the gap between the plate and the ruler. If the gap is more than 0, 3 mm, then the basket must be replaced.
Problem number 3 – noise from the gearbox are reported:
Gearbox bearings – inside the gearbox of your car, rollers and stubborn bearings are installed to support shafts and gears. If any of these bearings worn out, this will lead to noise in the gearbox.
If the car works and the noise is heard, and then it passes when the clutch is at rest, the primary shaft bearing is noisy.
If the gearbox does not make noise at neutral speed, but when clicked on the clutch, the clutch noise is observed, the squeezer bearing is worn out.